Cleansing Creams & Lotions Recipes
To clean greasy, grimy hands pour some olive oil over them and
rub oil into hands. Take some paper towels and wipe off the
gook. If they aren't clean yet, simply repeat the process
until are. Then to remove the olive oil run some very warm
water over your hands and dry hands with a paper towel.
Make a hand cleaning paste by mixing corn meal and apple cider
begin, for a lotion base all you need is water, oil and an
emulsifier. An emulsifier is simply an ingredient that blends the
water and oil together. Here is the base that I begin with to make
1/2 cup distilled water
* 1/2 cup oil (Your choice, a good one is olive, almond, macadamia
nut, or grape seed)
* 1 TBS liquid lecithin
can experiment from here by adding essential oils, combining other
oils; you can steep beneficial herbs into your water before you add
your oil, etc.
Here is a nice
winter lotion to get you started:
* 1/2 cup distilled
* 1/2 cup olive oil
* 1 TBS lecithin
* 6-8 drops of geranium oil
* 2-4 drops Myrrh oil
* 400 IU Vitamin E oil (1-2 open capsules)
Geranium oil is
good for supporting balance and rejuvenating dry skin conditions and
for wrinkled and matured skin.
Myrrh is a gentle
oil that is effective in replenishing moisture.
Vitamin E oil is an
excellent antioxidant and helps to protect the skin as well as a
ingredients in the blender either on whip or cream. You will have a
nice creamy firm lotion. Add more water to make a lighter lotion.
Store in the refrigerator in hot climates or store in a cool place.
Shake well before use.
How to make a cleanser for oily skin:
50ml almond oil
50g medium oatmeal
Heat the almond oil in a basin over a saucepan of hot water.
- Add the glycerine.
- Mix well.
- Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
- Stir in the oatmeal.
- Store in fridge.
How to make a cool cleansing milk for all skin types:
juice of half a cucumber
3/4 pint skimmed milk
1 teaspoon rosewater
Chop the cucumber finely and allow the juice to drain through a
cloth lined sieve into a basin.
- After about 30 minutes gently squeeze the cloth to extract as much
juice as possible.
- Add the juice to the milk.
- Store the cleansing milk in the fridge.
- It should be ok for use for 2 days.
- Soak pads of cotton wool in the cleanser and gently wipe the face.
How to make an elderflower cleansing milk for all
flowers from 2 heads of elderflower
3/4 pint skimmed milk
1 small sprig of thyme
Put the herbs with the milk in an earthenware or enamel container.
- Bring to the boil very slowly and allow to simmer for 15 minutes.
- Remove from the heat and allow to stand for 3 hours.
- Keep in the fridge and use within 2 days.
- Soak pads of cotton wool in the cleanser and gently wipe the face.
How to make elderflower moisturising lotion:
teaspoon cocoa butter
5 teaspoons almond oil
1 teaspoon lanoline
2 teaspoons elderflower infusion
Melt the cocoa butter, almond oil and lanoline together in a basin
over a pan of hot water on a low heat.
- Remove from heat and beat in the elderflower infusion.
- Keep beating until cool.
- Use within 2 days and store in fridge.
How to make a rosewater & glycerine moisturiser:
3 tablespoons rosewater
Pour both ingredients into a clean bottle.
- Replace cap.
- Shake ingredients.
- The bottle will need to be shaken each time before using.
Soft Skin Lotion
cup dried chamomile
teaspoons wheat germ
in milk for a few hours. Strain,
keeping liquid. Add honey and wheat germ to liquid mixture. Blend
well. Place in a bottle. Refrigerate any used portions. Keeps up to
Oily Skin Moisturiser
1/2 cup of almond oil
2 tablespoons of beeswax (grated)
1/2 cup of distilled water
1/4 cup of rose water
5 drops of galbanum essential oil
4 drops of rose essential oil
Combine beeswax with distilled water and melt
over low heat
When It is blended, pour it into a blender and
blend on low speed
While the blender is still running, add
gradually almond oil, rose water and the rest of
the essential oils
The mix will look like frosting and will slowly
thicken as it cools down
Pour it into a glass jar and use sparingly
This lotion can be used anywhere from 3-5 months,
as long as it is kept in a cool and dry place.
1. Place ice
in a large
on the ice.
2. Mix the
4. Whip with
5. Adding in
7. Place in
a glass jar,
store out of
regularly in the morning and again in the evening after
cleansing. Simply dampen a soft cloth or cotton pad with toner
and use it to moisten your face, neck and upper chest. For
extremely oily skin, or if you have been perspiring heavily, use
the toner several times between cleansings during the day.
Rose water for delicate skin: Produced when extracting
the essential oil of rose, rose water is a good base for a
toner. It is added to many skin-care products because of its
tightening, invigorating effect. Used alone, rose water
nourishes the skin and helps make it stay soft and silky.
Orange-blossom water for gentle freshening: Like rose
water, orange-blossom water is a by product of the essential-oil
extraction process. Made when producing neroli oil, it is mildly
astringent and helps restore suppleness and vitality, which are
often lacking in mature skin. It naturally soothes sensitive
facial tissue and increases blood flow to the skin.
Preserving toner: Homemade toners will keep for about six
months. During summer, it is advisable to store them in the
refrigerator to preserve their freshness. Manufacturers add
alcohol to their recipes to extend the shelf-life of the
commercial toners and astringents. When making toner at home, it
is best to avoid using alcohol in your blends. Alcohol is
particularly irritating to sensitive and dry skin because it
removes the oils that protect the skin. For a natural
preservative, try using vinegar-especially mild cider vinegar-in
your homemade toners instead. Just add a few drops of vinegar to
your toner mix; be sure to shake well before using.
Cucumber juice to tighten skin: Fresh cucumber juice
contains vitamins and large amounts of natural sulfur, which
help to tighten pores and disinfect the skin, giving it smooth,
clear and healthy appearance.
Apple-cider vinegar for blocked pores: Unprocessed and
unheated apple-cider vinegar, which is light brown, cloudy
liquid, contains malic acid, a natural alpha-hydroxy acid. This
substance gently loosens the dead skin cells on the surface of
the face, leaving smooth, silky skin. Diluted apple-cider
vinegar also acts as a normalizer, since it can regulate the
oiliness of the skin. In addition, it helps prevent
inflammation. You can find it in many health food-stores.
Yarrow tincture for clear skin: A tincture made from
yarrow flowers and leaves can help control oil production
because of the herb's astringent properties. It is also
effective for treating inflamed, infected pimples. Yarrow
tincture is available in health-food stores that specialize in
Mint hydrosol for inflammation: The process of producing
essential oils leaves behind watery by-products, or hydrosols,
which retain the plants healing properties in diluted form. Mint
hydrosol, which is made from the peppermint plant, can freshen
and clarify oily, blemished skin. It also has a mild
antibacterial effect and helps prevent the formation of red,
inflamed, painful pimples.
for circulation: Raspberry purée contains sulfur, which
helps to counteract inflammation and promotes circulation.
Hydrosol - The condensed water that is left behind when
plants are steam distilled to make essential oil. A little like
waters made from roses and lavenders and other herbs, except
more pure and a little more concentrated. You can make your own
waters, just by steeping an herb in warm water and straining.
Or, you can purchase hydrosols. See below.
What is a hydrosol?
Tinctures are alcohol-based solutions which draw out the healing
ingredients from herbs and flowers. You can make tinctures using
wild flowers or flowers from your garden. Simply use chopped
flowers and pack it in a jar half filled with the strongest
vodka. Use 100 – 150 gr. fresh flowers or herbs to 150ml
alcohol. If you use dried herbs or flowers use only 10 – 15 gr.
in 150ml alcohol. Seal the jar and leave it in on a sunny window
sill for 2 – 3 days. Then store in a dark place at room
temperature for 2 – 3 weeks, shaking it every day. Strain
through muslin cloth and store in a dark bottle. The tincture
will keep for 2 – 3 years.
3 tablespoons witch hazel
into a clean bottle.
- Shake and store in fridge for use.
Rose Skin Toner
ingredients together making sure it is all blended well.
Strain. Splash on your face after cleaning skin.
- this natural extract from the witch hazel plant
gently, but effectively cleanses pores deeply to remove
the last trace of dirt, oil and makeup leaving skin
feeling soft, moisturized and refreshed.
stimulates circulation to skin and scalp. Great toning
and astringent properties. Helps clear and revitalize
congested or sluggish skin.
1 cup mint
3 tbsp. dried chamomile flowers
3 tbsp. dried lemon-balm leaves
2 tbsp. wheat bran
1 tbsp. freshly strained raspberry juice
1 tsp. raw apple-cider vinegar
helps heal painful pimples and removes bacteria and excessive
oil. Bring the mint hydrosol to a simmering a small pot. Remove
it from the heat and add herbs and the wheat bran. Cover; steep
for 1 hour. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve, and then
through a coffee filter. Squeeze the filter to extract all the
liquid. Pour the toner into a bottle with the juice and vinegar.
Refrigerate. Shake well before each use. It will keep for up to
1/2 cup rose
3 tbsp. orange-blossom water
4 drops everlasting oil aka Helichrysum oil
8 drops lavender essential oil
ingredients into dark glass bottle and shake well before each
use. The everlasting oil protects against damage from irritation
and inflammation and supports the natural functions of your
skin. Lavender essential oil prevents cracking and heals minor
inflammations. It also helps relieve itching and is very good
for cases of eczema.
1 tsp. elderflower glycerite
3 tbsp. rose water
3 tbsp. orange-blossom water
This toner is
especially good for thirsty, dehydrated skin. Dissolve the honey
in the elderflower glycerite and pour into a 4-oz. dark glass
bottle; add the rose and orange blossom waters. Shake the blend
well before each use. Components in the elderflowers, when
combined with honey, act as a humectant, which means that they
help draw moisture from the air to the skin. This makes them
particularly well-suited for sensitive skin. Honey also helps
alleviate parched, flaky skin.
1 cup mint
3tbsp. dried coltsfoot flowers
3 tbsp. dried sage leaves
1 tsp. raw apple-cider vinegar
speeds the healing of pimples and regulates the activity of the
oil glands. Simmer the hydrosol in a small pot, and then remove
it from the heat. Add the herbs and cover. Steep for 1 hr.
Strain the mixture through a fine sieve then filter. Squeeze the
filter to extract all the liquid. Add the vinegar and store in a
bottle. Shake before using. It will keep for about 2 weeks in
1 tsp. lemon-balm glycerite
6 tbsp. rose water
sensitive or environmentally damaged complexions, blend
patchouli essential oil oil in lemon-balm glycerite. Top it off
with rose water and pour it into a 4-oz. dark glass bottle.
Shake before using. This blend is ideal for chapped skin.
Vinegar Facial Soak / toner
Heat rose vinegar (see recipe below),
slowly until it is a comfortable temperature to apply to the
skin. Soak a clean warm wash cloth in vinegar and lay over
the face for five minutes. Repeat this procedure four
times, each time re-dipping the washcloth to reapply. For
best results, keep the washcloth on the skin for a total of 20
minutes. This facial soak is an excellent exfoliant and skin
The information above was compiled from 3
directions body care recipes
of these recipes (unless otherwise stated), the method is the same.
Gently melt all the ingredients together in a glass bowl in the
microwave, ore over an alternative low heat, stirring until
combined. Add any flavours / colours / essential oils etc at the
end, just prior to pouring into appropriate sized jars/containers.
To make balms firmer, add more beeswax, to make them softer, add
less. Generally I use 2 simple lip balm bases, and add flavour/scent.
The possibilities are endless, I have included just a few of my
Recipe 1 - Honey
& Almond Lip Balm
8t Almond oil
Recipe 2 - Cocoa
Butter Lip Balm
70g Cocoa butter
40ml Almond oil
recipe for flavoured lip balms
7t Almond oil
5 drops of
flavouring/essence of your choice.
other recipes you might like to try:
Mint Lip balm
43g. shea butter
1 500iu liquid capsule pure Vitamin E
3-5 drops peppermint essential oil
last 2 ingredients when first 3 are melted
Luscious lip balm
2g alkanet root (optional- to give a pinky/red tinge)
1/2 cup apricot, almond, or grapeseed oil
1/8 cup beeswax
1/2 tablespoon honey
a few drops of pure essential oil to taste (orange, wintergreen,
mints, vanilla, and rose are my favorites)
If using alkanet, simmer the root over low heat in a double
boiler in oil for about 15-20 minutes, or until the oil has
turned a deep red/black color. The deeper the color the redder
the oil will be when strained and bottled. Strain through a
double layer of cheesecloth or a fine meshed strainer. If using
other emollient herbs, simmer in oil in double boiler over low
heat for 20-30 minutes. Strain.
Add beeswax, honey, and essential oil. A taste test here is
appropriate. Then, test for consistency by placing a tablespoon
of the oil in the freezer for 5 minutes. If the test batch is
too hard, add a bit more oil to soften; if it is too soft, add
more beeswax to harden, pour into containers.
Choc-Mint Lip balm
4 drops peppermint essential oil
1 drop neroli essential oil
1 drop chocolate fragrance oil
1 tablespoon sweet almond oil
Melt the cocoa butter in a double boiler.
Remove from heat and then add the sweet almond oil. Stir well to
Add the essential oils and the chocolate oil. Stir to combine.
Real Chocolate lip balm
tablespoon beeswax pellets
tablespoon roughly chopped shea butter
1 tablespoon grated cocoa butter
1 tablespoon sweet almond oil
tablespoon castor oil
drops pure vanilla extract
three pieces of your favourite chocolate
all ingredients together & pour into containers.
Balm For Chapped
1/2 oz Coconut oil
2 Vitamin E capsules
Melt the beeswax and coconut oil together and add
the contents of the vitamin E capsules. Pour into
containers to cool. You can add a few drops of
Rosemary oil to help heal severely chapped lips.
teaspoons Coconut oil
2 teaspoons Cocoa Butter, melted
1 teaspoon Beeswax, melted
1/2 teaspoon Pumpkin Seed oil
2 drops Peppermint essential oil
Combine melted ingredients.
Stir quickly and fill containers.
Soothing Lip Balm
1 teaspoon Beeswax, melted
1 Vitamin E capsule
1 drop of Essential Oil
(Vanilla, Orange, Lemon or Tangerine)
Mix ingredients together and place in containers.
Sweet Lip Balm
5 to 6
Tablespoons Sweet Almond, Jojoba, or Castor oil
1 Tablespoon Beeswax
2 Tablespoons pure Honey
10 drops oil of Spearmint, Peppermint, or Tea Tree
1/2 tube of favourite colored, moisturizing lipstick
Melt together oils and beeswax in a small saucepan over low
heat, or microwave till wax is melted. Use the larger amount of
oil if you want a thinner, glossier consistency. Remove from
heat. Add honey and blend mixture thoroughly. If you want to add
color, add the lipstick now. Stir the mixture occasionally as it
cools to prevent separation. It should be as thick as petroleum
jelly when ready.. If you add essential oil add it after the
gloss has almost cooled and stir thoroughly.
Basic Bath Salts
mineral (epsom) salts or sea salt
1 teaspoon glycerin or vitamin E oil
15 - 20 drops essential oils of your choice
few drops of food colouring if desired.
Mix all ingredients together, stirring well to blend.
Store in an airtight container. Add 1/4 cup or
more of the mixture to running bath water.
2 cups Epsom
1 cup sea salt, rock salt or coarse salt
food colouring (optional)
1/4 teaspoon glycerin
essential oil for fragrance
Combine salts in a large glass bowl. Mix well.
Add food colouring, a few drops at a time, until
desired colour is achieved. For plain white salts,
skip this step. Add glycerin and essential oil,
(4 or 5 drops) and mix together well. Spoon salts
into containers and seal. When giving as a gift,
attach a tag to salts describing the scent and
instructions to use 1/3 to 1/2 cup in the bath.
Herbal Bath Crystals
1/2 cup Sea Salt
1/2 cup Epsom Salts
1/2 cup fresh herbs leaves or flowers
1/4 cup Baking Soda
few drops essential oils
Blend the above ingredients in a food processor
or blender. Some oils to try: Lemon Balm, Rosemary,
Patchouli, High John, Rose, Geranium & Grapefruit.
Place 1/4 cup of the mixture under running warm
water for fragrant herbal bath.
Fizzy Bath Salts
16 oz Baking soda
8 oz Cornstarch
8 oz Citric acid
10 drops Lavender essential oil
5 drops Patchouli essential oil
5 drops Rosemary or Bayberry essential oil
Blend together the dry ingredients. Blend the oils
and add them one drop at a time to the dry
ingredients. Mix with your hands, then rub the
mixture thru a fine sieve to further distribute the
oils into the dry ingredients. Store tightly covered
for 2 weeks before using to fully develop the scent.
Make your own Organic soap
in-depth run down on how to make soap, courtesy of:
the informational section and go straight to the soap
recipes, click here.
For best results, use rain, distilled, reverse osmosis or
de-mineralized water. Your water should be 0.38 of your fat
by weight. Don't worry too much about getting it exact,
however, as this measurement isn't terribly critical.
You should know a little bit about lye, or sodium hydroxide.
Lye is a very strong base. If you get it on you, you will
find it's bad stuff. (Be sure to store lye where kids or
pets can NEVER get at it.) You must use care
in determining what utensils and mixing containers you use
when handling lye. Use wooden or plastic spoons and enameled,
plastic or glass bowls for mixing. (Lye will eat up Aluminum
in a hurry. Also, lye instantly and permanently takes the
shine off Formica. Formica is so sensitive to lye that it
left timeless streaks across the table where I wiped a few
dry crystals off with my hand. Now, with our table top and
kitchen counter tops ruined, the wife ushers me outside when
I handle lye.)
You would be wise to wear eye protection and rubber gloves
when handling the lye crystals or the lye solution after you
have mixed it into the water.
Dissolve lye in cold water. Having half your
water as ice would be so much the better. Never pour the
water into the lye. Doing this could cause the mixture
to explode and blow very corrosive lye water and crystals
all over the place. Rather, always pour the lye into the
water. If you don't stir it immediately as you pour the lye
into the water, the lye will settle to the bottom and
quickly solidify. This isn't a problem as tapping it with
the stirring utensil will break it up. As you mix it, a
physical reaction takes place between the lye and the water
generating a lot of heat. If you are making a large batch of
soap, the lye can even start the water boiling - with little
droplets of lye water splattering all over the place. If
this starts happening, stop stirring it until the bubbling
stops. Generally, it doesn't take more than a minute to
dissolve the lye crystals into the water. You know this has
happened as the water will become relatively clear. Before
using, the lye water must now cool down to about 29°C (or room temperature if your mixing area's above
29°C) before adding it to the fat.
Fats and Oils used in soap making.
In my experiments I have learned almost any fat or oil can
be used to make soap. Fats for soap making include animal
fats such as tallow (fat from beef), lard (fat from pork),
and the various plant derived oils and hydrogenated fats.
Traditionally, animal fats have been used, with beef tallow
making the hardest soap, pork lard a medium hardness soap
and chicken fat the softest. It's generally accepted that
the harder fats make better soap.
There are a multitude of fats and they each
bring their own unique qualities to soap. If you want to
know what a particular fat will do, make a small batch of
only that fat and see what kind of bar it makes. Armed with
this knowledge you can mix fats to give your soap the
qualities you want. This is how soap recipes are born.
Whatever type of fat or oil you use, you must
ensure it is clean and free of impurities. It shouldn't be
rancid, have excess salt in it, or have any solid particles.
(Many people remember the soap ‘grandma used to make,’ and
have unpleasant memories of nasty smelling stuff. If Grandma
had used clean, fresh, fat, her soap would have smelled
clean and fresh. But we can't blame Grandma as she did the
best she could with what she had. You will notice that Mrs.
Mertz disagrees with me on this point in her ‘
how we used to do it’
Rancid and dirty fat can be cleaned by boiling
it for a few minutes in a large pot with four parts water to
one part fat. Set it aside and let it cool. After it has
solidified, remove the fat from the pot in one piece. One
way to do this is to run hot water around the outside of the
pot, melting a thin layer of fat next to the pan. It should
then slide out. Scrape all the foreign matter off the bottom
of the fat. If it is still dirty, repeat the cleaning
process again. It is also fairly easy to
render your own fat.
What are your best fats for soap making?
Amazingly, the soap making professionals feel that lard
beats tallow and vegetable oils for gentleness to your skin.
However, soap made with 100% lard doesn't lather very well.
But it cleans beautifully. There is a predominant idea today
that you must get bubbles for the soap to do its job. Soap
making professionals have told me this is not the case. But
if you want bubbles, you can have the kind of bubbles you
want by using different oils.
Different Fats that create bubbles:
Coconut Oil gives big, fluffy bubbles. One hundred
percent coconut oil soap is sometimes used around
maritime operations as it will even lather in sea water,
really, about the only soap that will. Soap with coconut
oil can be a tiny bit harsh on some people's skin. If
you'd like cheap coconut oil, get a one or five gallon
bucket of popcorn popping oil which is 100% coconut oil
that's dyed yellow. Yes, you will be stuck with yellow
soap but this won't be a problem for most people.
oil gives very fine, silky bubbles. This oil is very
good for the skin.
soap making, use at least 25% of these fats as part of your
overall fat to get the desired effect you're seeking.
Saponification (Sap) Value: Each fat requires a
different amount of lye to change the fat to soap. See our
Lye to Fat Ratio Table Page
for a short discussion on this and a listing of different
fats and the lye required to convert them to soap.
The temperature of the fat is important. It
needs to be a bit above it’s melting point. This is 130
degrees F for beef tallow, or 85 degrees F for pork lard, or
about the same temperature for vegetable oil. The hotter
your oil, the faster the chemical reaction between the lye
and the fat. But the hotter the oil, the easier the soap
separates into layers during the mixing stage.
With the lye water and fat at the right temperature, very
gradually pour the lye water into the fat using a very small
stream. Stir gently only in one direction the whole time you
are adding the lye water. This helps it mix. You should
insulate your mixing pot with old rags, etc, to prevent the
fat from hardening before you've finished mixing the soap.
Saponification and its role in the
mixing process: Simply
stated, saponification is the name for the chemical process
that happens between lye and fat as they turn into soap. It
doesn't happen all at once, but actually takes days to
complete. There are different levels of this process, and
the most important one for you to know about is the
"Trace" stage. This is the point at which your soap has
thickened up somewhat. As you let the soap run off your
mixing spoon back into the mixture, the falling soap stays
on top and doesn't blend in, but leaves its "trace" mark on
top. Its thickness is another way to know when trace occurs.
Its consistency is much like the thickness of pudding after
it's cooked but before it has set up.
With stirring only, it can take a long time to
get your soap to the trace stage depending on many
variables. One of these variables is the heavyness of the
fat. The lighter the fat or oil, the longer it will take it
to trace. You can expect a wait anywhere from 30-60 minutes
for animal fats to several hours or even days for the
vegetable oils. Does this mean you need to sit and stir your
soap for several hours until it traces? I don't. After
mixing it for about 15 minutes, I do other things and mix
the settled layers back up every 15 or 20 minutes when I
happen to go by it. (You may wish to set your timer so you
don't completely forget it!) At the trace stage of
thickness, it won't separate out into layers when you pour
it in your setting trays or molds.
A False Trace
can happen when making soap with fats that are solid at room
temperature, such as tallow, lard, or shortening. If the
temperature of your soap mix drops below the melting
temperature of your fat, it will start to solidify. As it
does, your batch will start to thicken up just like it was
tracing - but it's not! Rather, it's the fats solidifying.
To prevent this from happening, be sure that the soap you
are mixing stays above the melting temperature of the fat.
In fact, the warmer your soap, the quicker it will saponify.
It wouldn't hurt to keep your soap up to around 46°C to speed this process along a
little more quickly. At 120 degrees F lanolin will curdle
your batch, so sometimes, depending on the additives you've
included, you may need to be very careful how hot you get
Vegetable oils can also be used for
making soap. These oils are liquid at room temperature and
without employing a trick or two usually require many hours
of mixing before they trace.
Trick 1: Use a blender. The more finely
the lye and fat molecules are intermixed the faster they
will saponify. Using a blender, the trace stage can be
reached in minutes instead of hours. Don't use an upright
blender unless you don't mind millions of tiny air bubbles
being permanently whipped into your soap. Use the hand-held
type instead. With one of these, even your most stubborn
oils should trace within 20 minutes. Sometimes, you can get
a trace with animal fats in just a couple of minutes. Anyone
who has sat around for hours stirring a batch of soap will
be ecstatic with this.
Trick 2: Cook it.
There are a couple of processes that I have developed myself
yet are rather unorthodox. And this is one of them. If you
don't have a blender, perhaps cooking your soap is for you.
soap cooking section
for more details. After it has cooled, pour or spoon it into
the soap mold or tray and treat it like you would for the
no-cook recipes. Even though it has been cooked, the
chemical reaction that slowly turns liquid vegetable oils
into soap will take much longer than cooked animal fat
your soap has traced you can add
your superfatting, coloring and perfume oils.
When your soap gets to its trace stage, the saponification
process is around 90% complete. Fat added at this point
makes your soap softer. There is a reason why the
superfatting oil is added after tracing instead of at the
beginning with all the other fats. If it was added at the
beginning you wouldn't have any control over which fat or
oil ended up as your 'free fat' as all fats would
saponify together. This is presupposing you are going to
superfat with a different fat or oil than you used to make
your soap with. Exotic oils are generally used in
superfatting. They are added at trace to give the benefit of
their desirable qualities without having to use so much it
empties your wallet. A good rule of thumb is to use 1 oz.
per pound of total fat used in the recipe. (That's one part
superfatting oil to 16 parts total fat.) Let me list just 2
of the more common superfatting oils:
Avocado Oil: Feels very soft to the skin and makes
an excellent shaving soap.
Cocoa Butter: Makes a hard bar. It smells and looks
nice, but doesn't lather.
Coloring Dyes: Several things are used
to color soap.
Approved items are clays, mineral pigments and spices. You
can get these items from soap supply companies. Moving back
into the area of unorthodoxy again, I color all my soap with
a piece of crayon. Virtually all crayon is made with stearic
acid, a type of fat. The stearic acid saponifies into the
soap leaving behind the pigment.
I melt crayon into my soap after it has traced.
Don't be tempted to put your crayon in at the beginning as
the lye will change its color. You may need to heat a half
cup or so of your traced soap to about 150 degrees F to get
it to the melting temperature of the crayon. Even adding a
crayon at this late stage of mixing, you may notice a slight
color shift over time.
Scenting Oils: There are two types
of scenting oils, FO's (fragrance oils) and EO's (essential
oils). An EO is made from distilling the oil out of the
plant it comes from. A fragrance oil is a man-made chemical
that's steeped in alcohol. EO's are usually used in soap
making as FO's have been known to seize soap, or turn it
into a yucky ball that doesn't saponify correctly. EO's are
much more expensive and harder to find than FO's but also
have better scent retention. If it is an EO, it will most
often say so on the label. You will also know it by the
exorbitant cost. FOs can often be used safely at trace
however. Make a small test batch first to see if your FO is
going to work before making a big batch. Be aware that rose
and cucumber FOs are notorious for seizing soap. If you want
to use an FO that can possibly seize soap, you can safely
use it during a
rebatch. Certain fragrance
oils and essential oils change the saponification
characteristics of a mix. Jasmine absolute from real flowers
is damaged by strong alkali. It is a natural fragrance and
not a fragrance oil.
The Setting Tray:
used a galvanized tub. Other old timers used a wooden box in
the shape of a tray with a cloth laid in the bottom of it.
The cloth was used to help remove the hardened soap from the
tray. If you are going to use a solid tray, may I recommend
plastic wrap instead of cloth as a barrier between your soap
and the tray. But there is something even simpler than this.
If you have any square edged, flexible plastic trays with
lips at least as high as a bar of soap is thick, use this
instead. After the soap has hardened, a slight flexing of
the tray will dislodge the soap. When the soap begins to
harden (1 hour to 3 days depending on how fast the curing
process is moving along), section it into bars. When
cutting, the soap should still be soft enough to easily run
a table knife through it but hard enough that the soap
doesn't run back together again. After it has further
hardened (3-7 days), remove it from the tray, and break it
into bars following the knife marks made earlier. Even
though your soap looks hard at this stage, it is far from
done. There's a good chance it contains a bit of lye that
should dissipate into the soap as the saponification process
continues. This will be true as long as you had your
lye/fat ratio correct
in the first place. Your soap will need to sit for 2-6 weeks
to dry out and cure, depending on the fat you used. Use
to test the lye content of your finished soap. Be sure to
wash off any soda ash that has formed before testing. Soda
ash has a high pH value. Your soap should be below a pH of
10 within 36-72 hours after it has traced. The closer the pH
of the finished soap is to 7 the better but don't expect
normally made soap to reach this. If your soap is over a pH
of 10, let it sit around for a week or two. Hopefully as the
soap continues to saponify the lye will get transformed and
the pH will drop. Your soap should be below a pH of 10
before you use it. Below a pH of 9 would be better. There
are a few seasoned soap makers that test the pH by tasting
the soap. Your tongue will tingle if there is still too much
lye in it. Of course, you don't want to swallow this stuff.
This was suggested to me as a possibility by Mrs. Mertz and
also by other contemporary soap makers who sell soap.
Final Curing and Storage:
With the soap out of the tray or molds, stack it up and set
it in a warm dry place for at least two weeks. When it has
fully cured, place it in a plastic bag or air tight
container, and store it in a cool, dry place. You might
notice a thin, white powdery layer on the outside of your
soap. This is soda ash, and forms as a result of the carbon
dioxide in the air interacting with the lye in the soap.
This outer layer quickly washes off the first time you use
it. If this is a concern, cover your setting soap with
plastic wrap so the air can't get to it. After
saponification nears completion, you can remove the air
barrier to let your soap dry out. After all this, if there
is still a thin layer of soda ash on your soap after it has
cured, wash it off, then let the surface of your soap dry
Final Soap Making Tips:
My experience: The recipes I used left a lot to be
desired. The instructions weren't sufficiently detailed for
me to really figure it all out and so I made several
mistakes which I will now point out.
first thing I had trouble with was getting the
lye/water/fat ratio correct. Often
the recipe simply said ‘a can of lye.’ Obviously, in
yesteryear all lye cans must have been the same size. Not so
any more. From analyzing several recipes both relatively
modern and old, I find the lye to fat ratio in many recipes
to be lye heavy. I suggest you figure the lye yourself using
fat to lye table
before using a recipe. Then alter it accordingly when making
your soap. Let’s not forget the 0.38 parts of water to one
part fat by weight. (Water, lye and fat are the primary
ingredients for all soap recipes I've found, and will make a
good bar of soap all by themselves.) Depending on what you
want to use the soap for, you may wish to deviate from the
lye-fat table. Make laundry soap intentionally lye heavy and
delicate facial soaps intentionally a bit fat heavy. Mix it:
Double the SAP table's figures for lye for really tuff
cleaning jobs, like laundry soap.
the 5% fat column for regular hand soap.
the 9% or 10% column for delicate facial cleaner
more lye in the soap, the harder bar it makes. (One of my
friends told me how before the days of the automatic washing
machine, his mother always threw a bar of home made soap
into the wash during her ‘manual wash cycle’ then pulled it
out before the ‘rinse.’ The same bar of soap lasted several
The second thing I had trouble with was
adding the different ingredients at the right times.
rinse created some real messes with this one. Here is a
suggested order to add things: Start out with...
be used in soap recipes for making clear soap. It won't
dissolve if you try to add it after the lye or fats have
been mixed in. Don't add sugar if you plan on cooking
It may be of interest to know that the commercial soap
makers use salt to separate out the glycerin which is a
natural by-product of soap making. Then they sell it as a
by-product even though by removing it, they reduce the
quality of their soap. Commercial soap makers use salt
to curdle a batch of soap. Salt is sometimes used to
clean fat during the rendering process and can be used
to help solidify soap when making it from ashes. Under
normal circumstances you probably won't add salt.
is an emulsifying agent that helps a mixed batch of
impure oils to get together closely enough to saponify
readily. As the soap cures the ammonia evaporates,
leaving your bar ammonia free.
is an emulsifying agent that helps a mixed batch of
impure oils to get together closely enough to saponify
readily. When the soap is used the borax acts as a water
- Mix all your fats together before adding your lye
water to them.
Fat or Oil
(Lanolin comes from sheep's wool. It's oil based and
mixes with the other fats very nicely. Adding Lanolin as
a superfatting oil at trace is also a option. Lanolin is
a mix of cholesterol, other heavy alcohols and fatty
acids. It's good for the skin and has a low sap value.
Lanolin does require a little lye.
After Trace: All
the following items are optional:
This is an antioxidant, and acts as an anti-rancidity
agent. Poke a hole in one end of the pill with a pin and
squeeze it out into your batch.
To prevent the lye from eating up your perfume, you need
to add this as late as possible in the saponification
process - the last thing before you put it in the mold.
The third thing I had trouble with was
getting it to trace correctly.
Trying different things, I happened on a couple
of different ways of getting soap to trace. Three methods of
getting soap to trace have already been discussed. When I
first started making soap I didn't know the first thing
about "trace." Because of this, I had several failed batches
until I developed a unorthodox way of setting soap that
incidentally is a lot faster than waiting for it to trace by
stirring only. The following method will only work with fats
that are solid at room temperature, like tallow, lard, and
shortening. You can't colour or scent your soap if you do it
this way as you should only add these things after tracing.
Professional soap makers are leery of this method as they
feel it is important to stir the batch to trace as it keeps
the molecules moving. Yet I add this last method here as
I've had excellent luck with it.
The Intentional False Trace: After all
the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, set your mixing
container in cold water and continue to stir, especially the
sides and bottom. I use a big spatula to do this as the fat
will solidify first on the sides and bottom of the pan. This
solidifying fat/lye mixture must be remixed into the warmer
mass in the centre of the pot. As the mixture cools,
continue to quickly stir it while the whole batch thickens.
When it gets to the consistency of thick gravy or pudding,
(trace consistency) pour it into your setting tray. The idea
here is to get it so thick there is no way it can separate,
yet fluid enough so it will flow. With it in the setting
tray, put it in the refrigerator so the fat in the soap can
continue to solidify. After it is cold, take it out of the
refrigerator and set it aside. Unless you make the soap
during very hot weather, it stirring re-melt and separate.
Anywhere from an hour to a day, depending on how fast it is
setting up, the soap should be ready to cut into bar sized
pieces. Note: Don't get confused here. If you actually
traced your soap,
you shouldn't put it in the refrigerator. The refrigerator
is only used when you thickened your soap in cold water
before tracing had a chance to happen.
curing: As mentioned before, it takes soap days for the
saponification process to complete, then weeks before it has
cured with all the water evaporating. My experience is that
it takes about 1 to 3 days for the soap to set up hard
enough to cut the soap into hand soap sized bars without it
melting back together again. Check it once or twice a day.
You don't want it so hard you can't run a table knife
through it. After sectioning the soap in the setting tray,
leave it in the pan to further harden 3 - 5 days. You want
it to be hard enough so it will maintain its shape and not
break up as you are taking it out of the tray. You can't
hurt it by leaving it too long, but if you take it out too
soon you can accidentally break pieces off or put big cracks
in the bars that will later break. When it has cured long
enough, remove the now solid soap and break it up into bars
from the knife marks made earlier. If you used a solid pan
lined with plastic wrap, after the soap is removed, use your
finger to smooth out the small grooves made by the wrinkles
in the plastic wrap. (If you wait, it will be too hard and
you can't be able to do this.) It is then stacked up and
left to further dry (cure) for two or more weeks.
It: Even mentioning this may seem like
over kill. When I first used that initial bar of lye heavy
soap from my first ever attempt at soap making, I rubbed and
rubbed, and didn't get much off it. But I soon learned that
I was just breaking it in. After I used it a few times, it
was much easier to use. If you have kids, to decrease their
resistance to using soap ‘you’ made, break it in first then
put it out for them to use.
soap: Ivan Stern discovered the easy way to make your soap
float. Just add a tablespoon of sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3)
or so to your soap mixture after you've added almost all of
the alkali. The bicarbonate reacts with the fatty acids to
release CO2 into the mixture. Be aware this adds a very
small amount of caustic material to your batch.
Soap Cooking In A Modern Setting
soap recipes found today aren't cooked. However, cooking
does offer some advantages.
Pro’s to cooking soap:
Cooking the soap solution greatly speeds up the chemical
reaction needed to make soap. Instead of taking weeks to
cure, it’s ready for use much sooner.
a relatively quick way to trace vegetable oils.
to cooking soap:
longer cook soap as a hand held blender works just as
can be very dangerous. Before the process is complete,
the soap can get up to 330 degrees F. From 220 degrees
F. to 275 degrees F. it has a tendency to splutter or
spatter soap out of the pot if it boils too vigorously.
This is not something you want to do with children
is a chance of fire. If you have a fire extinguisher
handy and use a pot with high sides, you shouldn't have
any trouble. Have a lid handy to smother any flames, and
never leave cooking soap unattended. Be sure to wear
adequate protection. This includes long gloves and
protection for all exposed skin and face. A face shield
would be a good idea. No one wants a drop or two of this
stuff spattering on their face or arms and making a
are some things you can't put in your recipe if you are
going to cook it.
How It’s Done...
cooking, you must modify the recipe somewhat. Don't add any
sugar or salt as this will make a mess. Lanolin will curdle
your batch if it is heated above 120 degrees F. You should
be able to add the other ingredients in the recipes found on
these pages. However, the three basic ingredients, fat, lye
and water make great soap all by themselves.
ingredients well mixed, place your soap mixture in an
stainless steel or enameled pot. Turn the heat on moderately
high until it gets to the boiling point, then turn it down
so it maintains a slow but rolling boil - a low enough boil
so it is not spattering all over the place. If it starts
spattering out of the pot, pull it off the heat partially
until it slows down. Then turn down the heat. Your goal is
to keep it boiling, but not so vigorously that it becomes
dangerous. Stir constantly and always be conscious of how
it’s boiling and behaving. As it boils two things happen:
cooks somewhat like candy in that it starts boiling at a
temperature of about 220 degrees F and as it continues to
boil the water off, the temperature rises. It is very
important to know when to quit. As it slowly gets thicker,
the instant the bubbles start appearing in the same place,
giving you a hint that it is acting just a bit more rigid
than before, pull it off the heat. In my experience this
happens at a temperature of between 300 and 330 degrees F.
It would be handy to keep a candy thermometer around as an
aid in checking on it’s progress. If you let it go too long
and the soap separates, add a little more water to bring it
back into suspension.
don't want to, it really isn't necessary to bring the soap
up to these high temperatures. This is the way I do it
however. To see if you've cooked it long enough, you can
also dribble a bit of soap onto a plate then wait for it to
cool. If it's setting up you have cooked it long enough.
pot off the heat, place it in cool water. If you don't, the
soap is so hot it will continue to bubble for a few minutes
with the pot off the stove! Also, if you tried to pour hot
soap at these temperatures, it would melt a hole right
through your plastic mold! Continue to stir it until it has
cooled off - down to at least 120 degrees. As it cools you
may wish to add a piece of crayon. As it melts it will color
your soap. This is also a good time to add fragrance oils
(FO's). After it has cooled, it should have the consistency
of thick pudding. Pour, or scoop the soap into your soap
tray or mold, then smooth it out the best you can with a
spatula. As it is very sticky, to get it nice and smooth on
top, place a layer of plastic wrap on it and continue to
smooth it out. I like to place something flat on top of it
and press down lightly. This makes it as flat on top as it
is on the bottom. A couple of hours later as the soap has
continued to cool and harden, you can remove this top layer
of plastic wrap. Smooth any imperfections out with your
finger that were created by wrinkles in the plastic wrap.
made from Animal Fat: After a couple of hours, section
it into bar sized squares with a table knife. Depending on
how firm it is, on the second day, you can remove it from
the tray and break it into bar sized pieces using the knife
marks you put into it. After two more days it should be
mostly cured. After it has dried it's ready for storage.
After curing, give it a litmus paper test. It should be a PH
of 9 or less. Or you can give it the taste test.
made from Vegetable Oil: After you get it in the soap
tray, treat it in the same way as you would for soap made
from animal fat using a non-cook recipe. It will take longer
to cure but still makes fine soap.
Lye to Fat
This table is for those of you who want to get a bit more
scientific in soap making, or just want to check and see if
the person who created the recipe you're planning on using
knew what they were doing. Each fat has its own
saponification value, or "SAP Value." And because of this,
each fat requires a different amount of lye to convert the
fat to soap.
soap to be made with no left over lye or fat you must have
very accurate measuring equipment. As the same oil from
different sources will have a slightly different
saponification value, we recommend you keep your soap a bit
fat heavy to ensure you don't end up with lye in your
table below use the 0-4% excess fat columns (pink)
if you have accurate technical equipment to test for excess
fat or lye. Use the 5-8% excess fat columns
to make good hand/body soap. and the 9-10% columns
if you want excessively fat heavy soap.
was written under close consultation by Tina Howard at
Majestic Mountain Sage. In fact, the following table was
made using her lye calculator, which will automatically
calculate the amount of lye you need for a large variety of
different fats. You plug into her calculator the fats and
quantities and it returns how much lye you'll need.
Using the Lye Calculation table
Calculate the amount of lye you need by
multiplying the amounts of each fat
(including superfatting oil) in your recipe
by the number intersected by the fat and
your desired excess fat column. Then add the
different lye amounts for the different fats
in your recipe together.
Example: You want to calculate the
amount of lye for a recipe that calls for
for 450g. of lard as it's only fat. You
want your finished soap to have 5% excess
fat. Intersecting the Lard row with the 5%
column, you find the number 0.132.
Multiply 450 (fat wt) by 0.132 =
Desired Excess Fat In Finished Soap
Weight of water needed = Total weight of
fat in recipe times 0.38
Using potasium hydroxide
instead of Lye? Multiply the lye by 1.4
- Using the example
at the top of the table, 1.4 X 2.1 oz (lye
used) = 2.94 oz of potasium hydroxide.
NOTE: The common alkalis used
in soapmaking are sodium hydroxide (NaOH),
also called caustic soda; and potassium
hydroxide (KOH), also called caustic potash.
Why different oils have their own SAP
values: It all has to do with the length of the fatty
acid chain. Briefly, it takes the same amount of lye to
saponify a short fatty acid molecule as it does to saponify
a long fatty acid molecule. The longer a fatty acid molecule
is, the more a set number of them weigh. Saying this in
another way, the longer chain fatty acids have a higher
molecular weight. Hence, it takes less lye to saponify the
longer chain fats. You can determine which fats above are
the longer chain fats by looking at their SAP values. The
higher the SAP number, the shorter the chain. Most of the
fats above revolve around 18 carbon chain molecules with the
sap value hovering around .136-.140 in the 0% Excess Fat
Column. (The reason they are all slightly different is
because the mixture of different fatty acids in each fat or
oil is slightly different.) On the other hand, coconut oil
contains about 47% lauric (C12), 19% myristic (C14), 9.5%
palmitic acid (C16) and 20-25% other residues. Because
coconut oil has several shorter string molecules, it takes
more lye to turn a given weight of them into soap. Coconut's
SAP value is .184. The reason for this is: the smaller the
molecule, the more you can fit into a given volume. The more
you can fit in a given volume, the more saponifiable bonds
will be required and the more base you will consume.
of a molar (equal number of molecules) ratio, then it takes
an equal level of base to saponify the fat/oil, although the
larger molecule will have a larger volume.
Organic soap recipes
a list of soap recipes to try. If you haven't done so,
please read the above information for your understanding and
Directions for the three recipes
Cover benchtops with newspaper and
also put a layer on newspaper down
on the floor in case of any
splashes. If you get any splashes on
benches etc wash area and then apply
vinegar to neutralise. Wear safety
goggles, rubber gloves, long
sleeves/trousers and footwear. Use
accurate scales to measure your
Measure your chilled water and pour
into a tall sided pliable plastic
jug or bucket. While wearing safety
gear measure your caustic soda and
then pour the caustic soda INTO
your chilled water, stir well with a
plastic or stainless steel long
handled spoon until the sodium
hydroxide dissolves. Set aside in a
safe place and allow to cool to at
least 40°C (use a stainless steel
thermometer). This is best done in a
well ventilated room. You will get
some initial fumes - try not to
breathe them in. I mix this caustic
and water mixture in the kitchen
sink to contain any spills.
Measure your oils and, in a large
stainless steel saucepan or small
stainless steel stock pot, heat them
gently. Once the solid fats and oils
are melted allow the temperature to
drop to 40 or 45° C.
Slowly pour the caustic and water
solution into the melted oils. Be
careful not to splash while
combining the mixtures. Stir with a
long handled plastic or stainless
steel spoon until the mixture
traces. If tracing takes more than
15 minutes, which it often does,
stir for the first 15 minutes, then
stir for 5 minutes at 15 minute
intervals. Tracing looks like a
thickened homemade custard. To test
if your mixture has reached trace,
dribble a line of soap across the
top of the mixture. If the line
remains visible on top then the soap
has traced. If it sinks into the
mixture quickly then you need to
continue stirring. If you have a
handheld stick blender you can use
that to reach trace, give it short
steady bursts and stir in between.
Once tracing occurs you can add the
20 mls of essential or skin safe
fragrant oils. Stir in well. You can
also add ground herbs or oatmeal for
texture (I usually add about 1/4 of
a cup but it's a personal thing and
you may find you like less or more).
The more finely ground the herbs or
oatmeal the better, coarse
herbs/oatmeal can be unpleasantly
scratchy rather than exfoliating.
Cosmetic clays can also be added.
Mix them with a little bit of water
first before adding at trace (so
they incorporate easily). You can
mix thoroughly for a solid colour or
just gently stir through once or
twice for a swirled effect.
Pour the soap into your mould. A
good mould for this recipe is a 1
litre washed milk carton or a 1
litre takeaway container lined with
a freezer bag. Put a piece of
clingwrap over the top of the filled
mould and put it aside (somewhere
out of the way) and loosely wrap
around a couple of towels to
insulate the soap. After a day or
two the soap can be turned out of
the mould (or with the milk carton
the mould is torn off). If the soap
is very soft still (dents easily),
allow it to cure for a few more days
to further firm before cutting (it
cuts best when the texture/firmness
is like cheddar cheese).
Cut soap into bars and set the bars
out on a cake rack to cure and dry.
This will allow the bar to further
firm and finish saponification. Let
them sit for 4 weeks to fully harden
and to allow as much water to
evaporate out as possible. I use a
paint scraper to cut my bars as it
is thinner than a knife and
sometimes knives can be too thick
and cause the soap to chip and crack
whilst you cut it. The more time
that soap is allowed to sit the
harder it becomes and the longer it
will last when being used.
makes 8 full bars.
450 grams olive oil
250 grams coconut oil
250 mls chilled water (spring or
90 grams caustic soda (sodium
20 mls of essential or skin safe
1/4 cup ground herbs or ground oatmeal
1 tablespoon of cosmetic clay
250 grams macadamia nut oil
250 grams olive oil
250 grams coconut oil
250 grams palm oil
50 grams castor oil
390 mls water
135 grams sodium hydroxide
25 mls of essential or skin safe
1/4 cup ground herbs/oatmeal
1 tablespoon of cosmetic clay
Macadamia nut oil is a lovely oil to use
in soaps. Macadamia nut oil is very
close (molecularly) to our own skin
sebum so it is nourishing to have in
The coconut and castor oils make for
great big bubbles. The coconut and palm
provide initial hardness, with the olive
adding to that later as well.
600 grams olive oil
150 grams coconut oil
150 grams palm oil
50 grams apricot kernel oil
50 grams avocado oil
375 mls water
130 grams sodium hydroxide
25 mls of essential or skin safe
1/4 cup ground herbs/oatmeal
1 tablespoon of cosmetic clay
This recipe can be soft at first and
needs a good six to eight weeks to age.
As with all soaps high in olive oil once
they are thoroughly cured and aged they
make for a very hard and long lasting
The ingredients in this recipe are very
nourishing and this soap would suit
those with sensitive skins.
Temperature is crucial when mixing the oils with
the lye. If too hot, it will separate; too cool
and it won't turn into soap. If you have a thick
layer of oily stuff after the 18 hour covered
period, the soap will be unusable. If it has a
layer of white stuff, don't worry about it,
that's normal. If there are small white lumps in
the soap, they are lye and it will burn if used.
Making up a recipe
yourself, using one from the net or a friend or
changing one you've been given? ALWAYS
re-run your recipe through a
to make sure that the amount of caustic soda (NaOH)
is correct. Typos *do* happen! Much better to
spend a few minutes double checking than to ruin
a batch or worse.
Accuracy in weighing is IMPORTANT. Inaccurate
measuring can make for a very harsh or very soft
Only use pliable plastic jugs, plastic or
stainless spoons and stainless steel saucepans.
The caustic nature of raw soap does not react
well with glass, brittle plastic or metals other
than stainless steel.
Store soap which is not in use in a cool dry
area. In a paper bag in the linen closest is
always a good spot.
Don't let handmade soap sit in water between
uses or sit directly under running water for any
long duration as it soaks the water up and gets
mushy (the technical term!).
Want to add colour to your soap? This is easy
with ultramarines or oxides. A medium strength
solid colour is approximately 1 teaspoon per
kilo of oils. You can add this colour to your
caustic water or at trace. It helps to blend the
ultramarines and oxides with a little water
first if adding at trace, to help them
incorporate in better. Give a good stir with the
stick blender to get a nice even solid colour.
If you are wanting to swirl these colours
through you may only need 1/2 teaspoon of
colour. If swirling remember to add your scent
first before you colour. Pour off into a jug a
small amount of soap, mix the colour in
thoroughly, pour the coloured soap back into the
pot, stir the mixture gently (once) and then
pour off into the mould.
If buying caustic soda from the supermarket
don't get Drano, it contains additives. You need
to get a brand which says 98-99% pure, commonly
Lye (Sodium Hydroxide)is a harsh base and
can be extremely dangerous. Avoid skin and
eye contact. If you get skin contact, flush
with a diluted acid (water and vinegar would
do fine) and seek medical attention. If you
get eye contact flush with cool water for 15
- 20 minutes. Use eye wash centre or eye
flush bottles if available, seek medical
attention immediately. If swallowed,
contact poison control center.
Don't use the same tools for food
preparation as you do for soapmaking. Wooden
spoons are porous and will suffer
splintering when used repeatedly for
soaping. Similarly, whisks have too many
little nooks and crannies in which caustic
substance can hide.
Caution! Put on your rubber gloves and
goggles when working with lye. Do not leave
lye in reach of children and animals. Always
add lye to water, not water to lye!
In the instance that lye should come in
contact with your skin, do not run it under
water. Neutralize the burn with vinegar.
Water will only make it hurt worse.
Shea Butter Soap
(from Soothing Soaps
by Sandy Maine)
2 cups glycerin soap base, melted in a double boiler
2 tbsp shea butter, melted separately
Several drops of your favorite essential oil
Mix well, pour into molds (you can use regular food
storage containers), and cool.
Shea Butter Soap Base
(all measurements by weight)
- the refined natural with Vit E makes a
very white, luscious bar of soap
765g. water (the good stuff)
Temps should be at 32°C to 37°C for fats and
Melt your fats in a big stainless steel pot
nice a slow ..on low..
When your lye mixture is cool enough you can
add it to the fats.
Stir this mixture until you get a very thick
and creamy looking batter.
Now, add your scent.